Editing Exercise: Recutting “The Lone Ranger”

tonto-and-the-lone-ranger-19942-1920x1080DISCLAIMER: This is a study of film editing.  The text and cut are strictly for educational purposes.

In June, 2013 I went to see Gore Verbinski’s The Lone Ranger with a friend and fellow filmmaker.  Ranger was already getting panned, but my inner child wanted – needed – to see the film, and judge it for myself.  Among the scatter of early childhood memories the most vivid include me, on the floor of my bedroom playing with my Lone Ranger, Tonto and Silver action figures.  When these guys hit the big screen again (oh, I was already a fan of William Fraker’s remake The Legend of the Lone Ranger from 1981), I wanted to recapture that feeling, and ride with these heroes of the silver screen once again.

It was a risk, given the film’s poor reception, but I was already a big fan of Verbinski’s entire filmography.  Despite the dreadful reviews and pasting it received by the film-focused blogosphere I still had fun in my seat, and can honestly say that I enjoyed the film… which isn’t to say I didn’t have mixed feelings.

On the plus side, and being a cinematographer myself, the photography was gorgeous.  I love the Western genre, and Bojan Bazelli captured its visual excitement and beauty in the wonderful2.40:1 format.  The contrast between expansive landscape and close-up conflict lived in every scene, and every shot was a painting, as they say.  Hans Zimmer delivered an amazing score rich with themes resounding the mythology and romance of the wild west.  Johnny Depp is reliably great, Armie Hammer is excellent, and William Fichtner gave us one of his best performances, ever. On the flip-side, Tom Wilkinson and Helena Bonham Carter showed plenty of talent, but I couldn’t help feeling how much more they are capable of, than they were able to give.

But, I did have a problem with this movie — a big one: the characters had been completely rewritten from the heroes I remember.  Silver had become comic relief, which was acceptable to a point, until it became ridiculous.  Tonto wasn’t warm and smart; he was snide and know-it-all.  Worst of all, John Reid, The Lone Ranger, came off as weak.  I understand the trend to re-envision heroes as flawed anti-heros but the way John Reid was portrayed made him seem spiteful,  cheap and, in short, a doofus.  I didn’t want to root for him.  I didn’t care about him.  I wasn’t excited when he won.  His character left me sad and disappointed. From the moment I realized there was no hope he would become the shining hero of my young imagination, all the film’s shortcomings became impossible to ignore.  I spent most of the two and a half hours saying to myself, “That scene should have been cut,” and, “Did we really need to see or know that?”

Once the film was over, I turned to my friend and said:
I wonder if I could cut this into the film I had hoped to see.

Two years later, I decided to try.  But before I made my first cut, I watched the film five more times, making notes about what I thought was important for me, as a fan, to restructure John Reid and Tonto. Not surprisingly, the exercise revealed how well-edited Verbinski’s film already is, but I was determined to see if I could cut and re-arrange the film to sculpt the main characters back into the iconic team that lives forever in my mind.

Here were my goals for the re-cut:

– Make John Reid worthy of being The Lone Ranger.
This wasn’t going to be easy as Arnie Hammer had been directed to perform the character in a ‘holier than thou’ manner in which he chose to defend the law by burying his head in the books rather than gun-slinging out on the frontier.

– Make Tonto more of a wise soul / trusted companion.
I wanted to reduce the belittling, the put-downs and the snobbish attitude that the character had become.  I love the back story that the writers had created, but if Tonto had plotted for 20 years to kill Butch, then having missed the opportunity because of John Reid’s interruption should have only had him re-steer his commitment and find a way to convince Reid that they both had something in common EARLY ON; bringing Butch to Justice.  And lets kill so many references to the bird on his head.

– Make Silver less of a gimmicky comic relief.
I hoped to simplify him making him more unique, and fun, a compliment to our heroes.

– Get rid of the San Francisco flash-forward scenes.
I saw no reason to keep any of these scenes featuring a conversation between a young little boy and an elderly Tonto.

– Remove Helen Bottam Carter.
… as much as possible.  Her character wasn’t critical to the story and simply wasn’t necessary.

– Remove the love triangle.
The love Triangle set-up between Dan, John, and Rebecca and turn it into saving what’s left of his family rather than his love before his brother married her and the child that he’d father in place of his brother.  No, just make it strong enough to be something that the audience could believe and would help support rooting for Reid.

– Simplify themes.
In fact – try to cut a few out.  The film is already a juggling act as it is.

– Remove the cannibal trait from Butch.
I’m not sure why this was felt necessary, except it did define what a Wendigo is considered to be by Algonquian folklore.

– Cut Some of the toilet humor and stereotypes.  
A couple of examples included Tonto drinking booze as a “Comanche show of respect” and dragging our hero’s head through a pile of horse crap from his spirit horse, Butch’s cross-dressing henchman.

– Don’t worry about the length of the cut.
Just cut, re-edit, anything.  Don’t try to make it a 1.5 hour movie or a 2 hour movie.  Just trim the fat and see where we net out.

So I spent about 40 hours, give or take, on this getting it where I was happy enough to share it with others.  Is it perfect?  No.  Not at all.  Did I achieve my to-do list?  For the most part, yes.  Is it a better film?  That’s completely subjective.  It’s a different film – a different cut that certainly changes the film enough to make it noticeably different, but more of a recycling than a new piece.  In my re-edit, I like the characters better.  I like the way they treat each other, and I like a few of the transitional re-shuffling of scenes in places.  Most of all, I don’t miss, at all, the “Old Tonto” San Francisco scenes.  And for me, that may be the biggest win; proving the film could work without those scenes (though cutting them out did cause a continuity break in places).

There are hiccups in places – where continuity is broken because a shot I used originally appeared someplace else and I cut something in-between.  However, I tried to hide as many of those as possible.  I bought the soundtrack to the movie and used it to smooth over some transitions in the cut.

Overall, I didn’t obsess on this; I just had to try and recut this rather than just talk about how I thought I could have recut it.  I could continue to fitness the edit to make it even stronger, but that really wasn’t what this whole experiment was about; I set out to recut a film in order to make the characters of the film more appealing to ME.  In doing so, I do believe, in the least, I’ve managed to portray the characters as better heroes with better relationships and with better arcs.  In essence, a subjectively better John Reid (Lone Ranger) and Tonto.

Here’s a breakdown of a scene from the film to show you my thought process.  Password: ranger

Here’s the full re-cut.  Enjoy, and be sure to watch it BIG!  Password: ranger

If you’ve seen Verbinski’s “The Lone Ranger,” then you may have an easy time making a comparison.  If you haven’t seen it before, I encourage you to watch it (buy it or rent it),  in order to see the value in this exercise.

Either way, the film is stunning in its cinematography, composition, lighting, and lensing.  One of my favorite films to reference for compositional inspiration in the 2.40:1 format.

Enjoy.

Fincher Grabs His “Suit & Tie”

COMPOSITIONAL STUDIES: Director David Fincher and Justin Timberlake team up again for the music video “Suit & Tie,” featuring Jay-Z.  Fincher shot it with 5 RED Epic-M Monochromes at 3200 ASA.  The Director of Photography was Matthew Libatique (Black Swan, Iron Man – Darren Aronofsky’s weapon of choice).

Not only is this a perfect demonstration of the powerful Epic-M capabilities of black and white photography, it’s another perfect example of Fincher’s attention to detail and respect for the camera and thus, the audience.

Nearly EVERY FRAME of this video has perfect composition.  And as Fincher is known for, the camera barely moves unless revealing something or being operated in reaction to motivated motion by the subject within the frame.

Watch and enjoy…

An Introductory Light Kit for DSLR Video

Editor’s Note from 2015: A quick reminder/update – if you’re reading this post – it certainly needs to be updated.  This WAS a great read for 2011.  And although a lot of it still works/applies today, there are a LOT more options!  

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For any filmmaker, you need a camera and for every camera, you need…

Light.

I’ve shot a lot of shorts where lighting was the least of my worries. If I had hired or been paired up with a DP to work with, I’d usually trust their lighting weapon-of-choice for any given shoot. We’d either rent these lights along with a grip truck/trailer or use whatever lights the DP owned in his/her arsenal. On the rare occasion we’d get to use powerful HMI lighting (I was fortunate enough to work with DP John-Paul Beeghly who managed to light one of my shorts entirely with only three HMI’s and a small pile of diffusion and reflectors – amazing) and I’ve worked with jerry-rigged chained 150 watt home-use bulb fixtures dangerously wired together with a few rolls of electrical tape (but hey, they worked great).

Now that I’m doing more independent shooting these days, I thought it would be a great time to put together a lighting kit of my own, for experimental & short film projects. On the smaller scale, I’ve worked with Arri kits, Lowel kits, HMIs and recently played with some Litepanels LED lights, each of which I’ve appreciated in their own respects and would love to own an array of each. Buuuuuuuut, I have a budget and want the most bang for my buck.

To help myself out, I called up an old friend and college classmate, Alex Fox, founder of the East Coast production firm, Fox Commercial Media and the great DSLR training resources at 5DFilmSchool.com. Working full time as a DP on smaller projects and pushing hard behind DSLR shooting, I knew someone like Alex would have a solid insight on what I’d be looking for.

My initial budget was set at $700-$1000 and I had plenty of kits to choose from on B&H Photo’s website (and if this is the FIRST time you’re hearing about B&H Photo, why aren’t you buying all your gear from them?). I even picked out a few and threw them at Alex for analysis.

My goal was to create a light kit with the capability to shoot a minimum 3-point set-up along with some diffusion, reflection, flags, and silks. This kit would need to be versatile, with various ranges of wattage and be ideal for shooting medium to small locations, indoor or out.

The following is what a few weeks of back and forth conversations with Alex helped me decide on and what my personal light kit is now comprised of and why.

The Base Kit (Three Lights):
This is the kit Alex and I threw together as my BASE lighting kit. It’s the foundation of most lighting situations within a medium to small shooting space. It’s perfect for documentary shooting, portrait photography, or scene shooting on the smaller side (indoor, pre-lit areas).

Lights:
– KEY: 1 Lowel Tota Light, (fitted with a 750w lamp) (B&H: LOTLL)
– FILL: 1 Lowel Tota Light, (fitted with a 500w lamp) (B&H: LOTLL)
– BACK/KICK/RIM: 1 Lowel Pro-Light 200w (fitted with a 200w lamp) (B&H: LOPLQ)

Support:
– 4 Impact air-cushioned 8′ Light Stands (B&H: IMLS8A)
– 1 Impact Umbrella Bracket (B&H: IMBSM)
– 1 Pelican/Hardigg Foam-Lined Stormcase (B&H: STIM2950B)
– 1 Tota Lampak Lamp Case (B&H: LOLPTL)
– 1 750w Tota-Light Halogen Spare Lamps (B&H: IMEMD)
– 1 500w Tota-Light Halogen Spare Lamps (B&H: IMFDN)
– 1 200w Pro-Light Spare Lamp (B&H: GBFVL)

Modifiers:
– 1 27″ White Tota-Brella (B&H: LOTBW)
– 1 60″ Photoflex Convertible Umbrella (B&H: PHU60C)
– 1 Lowel Assorted Day-Blue Gel Pack (B&H: LOFSATL)
– 1 4-pack of Tota-Shades (B&H: LOTS4)

Breaking it down:
– The Lowel Tota-Light (B&H: LOTLL $130.00 ave.): 
That’s right, I chose to go with Lowel’s rugged Tota-Lights. Now I hadn’t used these much since film school, but back then we used them constantly. And I understand why film schools love them (nearly everyone who has gone to film school has, at one point, used a tota-light) — they’re cheap, light, compact, versatile, and extremely drop-proof (not including the lamp). Best of all, you can vary your wattage by keeping a variety of lamps in your kit (currently, you can nab 120v lamps at 750w, 600w, 500w, and 300w), so choose your intensity when you need it.

Also, little known to many, Tota-Lights can STACK. That’s right, you can easily take two Totas and stack them side by side on the same light stand, combining wattage. Two 750w’s now become a single 1500w light. Like I said; versatile.

Each Tota-Light has a built-in umbrella holder and gel frame holder (though you can’t use both at the same time).  Using one of the Tota-Brellas is perfect, though the weight of the Photoflex 60″ will certainly tilt the light unless you tighten the hell out of it. I suggest using a separate light stand and umbrella clamp for something heavier like the 60″ Photoflex umbrella.

Finally, the Tota-Light comes with a protective lamp screen (to protect from any lamp-pops!) and features a LONG power cord with an on/off switch in the line. But get a pair of leather gloves from you local home improvement store for about $1.99 — these lights get HOT!

– Lowel Pro-Light (B&H: LOPLQ $115.00 ave.):
The Lowel Pro-Light is another great little light, maxing out at 200w, but perfect for a rim or back light or for just adding a little more light into the scene. It has a built in umbrella stand like the Tota-Light and has a dial to spot or flood the light beam. Barn doors are optional, but good to have as well with this light.  Using a Tota-brella with this light is out-of-the-box beauty on almost any subject for a quick snapshot.

– Impact Light Stands (B&H: IMLS8A $35.00 ave.):
I went with Impact’s brand light stands due to being a better quality light stand for the buck. They’re certainly better than Lowel’s light stands that come with their Tota-Light kits. PLUS, these go up to 8′, are light-weight, and happen to be VERY lightweight. Perfect to travel with, but they won’t handle the heaviest loads.  Again, these were chosen for use with the light kit we’re creating here – if you need something more robust, Impact makes many more light stands for great prices.

– Lowel Lampak (B&H: LOLPTL $16.00 ave.):
Simply a case for your extra lamps (bulbs) with a foam enclosure to ensure they don’t break! I pack in my extra lamps and have them ready to change out if needed.

– Photoflex 60″ Convertible Umbrella (B&H: PHU60C $40.00 ave.):
This one came from Alex and I couldn’t thank him enough. The size of this umbrella POURS light onto any subject I’m lighting… with ease. Best of all, it’s black backing can be removed giving you an umbrella to shoot through or bounce with.

– Lowel Tota-Brella (B&H: LOTBW $20.00 ave.): I actually added this to my list AFTER I had the chance to work with the Photoflex Umbrella. Although the 60″ bloom was amazing, sometimes I wouldn’t use this due to it’s sheer size (and weight on a C-stand), thus I decided to add one of the light-weight white umbrellas designed by Lowel for specific use with Tota-Lights.

– Impact Umbrella Bracket (B&H: IMBSM $18.00 ave.):
If you’re going to use any of the umbrellas in this kit without the built-in umbrella holders on the lights, you’ll need that extra light stand and this umbrella bracket. Impact’s bracket also comes with a hot-shoe (to use a flash, if desired) and two light stand bracket extensions to help in customizing the use of the bracket.

– Lowel Assorted Day-Blue Gel Pack (B&H: LOFSDBTL $13.00 ave.):
Having a set of blue gels is key for the light kit, making sure you can cater to matching other light temperatures.  This gel pack is specifically sized for Tota-Light use (smaller in size).

– 4-Pack Tota Shades (B&H: LOTS4 $57.00 ave.):
The Tota shade are basically barn doors for the Tota-Light, specifically. You can attach one, or two, or three or all Four to help control your light. These could almost be considered an optional buy, but if you’re using the gels as mentioned before, you’ll need these to help keep the gels away from the intense heat from the lamp.

– Pelican/Hardigg Foam-Lined Stormcase (B&H: STIM2950B $220.00 ave.):
You’re going to need a case to keep this all in and something much more sturdy than the Lowel brand hard of soft cases that come with the Lowel light kits. For the size and price, you can’t beat this case. It’s big enough to fit everything above (including the light stands and extra room for future growth in your kit) and with pick & pull foam, you can design the interior how best you’d like for your lights. For the price, you can’t beat this case.

To Sum-up…
So when writing this, I tallied the math up and it’s sits just under $900, with extra lamps, just under $1000. Sure, you can swap things in and out, not buy this or that, or even change the product (like the storm case, for instance) for something that gets the job done close. Also, you can shop hard for these items and find them a bit cheaper (even on B&H) than for the prices I listed. Either way, it’s a VERY strong lighting kit for under $1000.

The NEED for a bit more…
Be warned… once you get into this, you may find yourself needing MORE additions to your kit, and you may fall in love with the possibilities of expanding. In my case, after some testing, I decided to add a few more items to my light kit…

Basically, I stuck with the BASE 3-point light kit as listed above, but with an added Tota light for even more versatility (plus I can get a much brighter Key light now when needed), a LARGE 52″ diffusion/reflector kit, a reflector/flag light stand, an extra light stand, an extra Tota-brella, more gels, and even more extra bulbs.

This modified kit sits just under $1400, but now I feel like I’m preppared for almost any lighting need for a down-n-dirty indy shoot.

The FINAL Kit (Four Lights):
Lights:
– KEY: 2 Lowel Tota Lights, (each fitted with a 750w lamp) (B&H: LOTLL)
– FILL: 1 Lowel Tota Light, (fitted with a 500w lamp) (B&H: LOTLL)
– BACK/KICK/RIM: 1 Lowel Pro-Light 200w (fitted with a 250w lamp) (B&H: LOPLQ)

Support:
– 5 Impact air-cushioned 8′ Light Stands (B&H: IMLS8A)
– 1 Impact Umbrella Bracket (B&H: IMBSM)
– 1 Pelican/Hardigg Foam-Lined Stormcase (B&H: STIM2950B)
– 5 Impact 15lb. Sandbags (B&H: IMSB15O)
– 1 Impact Multi-boom Light Stand/Reflector Holder (B&H:IMLSRH)
– 1 Tota Lampak Lamp Case (B&H: LOLPTL)
– 2 750w Tota-Light Halogen Spare Lamps (B&H: IMEMD)
– 2 500w Tota-Light Halogen Spare Lamps (B&H: IMFDN)
– 1 200w Pro-Light Spare Lamp (B&H: GBFVL)

Modifiers:
– 2 27″ White Tota-brellas (B&H: LOTBW)
– 1 60″ Photoflex Convertible Umbrella (B&H: PHU60C)
– 2 Lowel Assorted Day-Blue Gel Packs (B&H: LOFSATL & LOFSDBTL)
– 1 4-pack of Tota-Shades (B&H: LOTS4)
– 1 Westcott Illuminator 6-in-1 52″ Reflector Kit (B&H: WEIR6152)

And here’s what it looks like all packed up:

 

Questions/Thoughts:
Why not buy a pre-built light kit instead? 
You know what – I asked Alex the same question, and he simply laid the figures out for me. Not only would you pay a little MORE for a light kit, but you’d be getting a lot of things with that kit that you’d rarely use. Instead, spend your money on what you KNOW you’ll be needing and what you KNOW you’ll be using. Now B&H DOES offer combo kits that save you $10 here and there (for instance, B&H’s Single Tota One-Light kit #LOTLLKW, comes with the Tota-Brella, a 750w lamp, and Impact air-cushioned light stand vs. buying each separately saving you $10 – hey, ten bucks is ten bucks!).

For some people, light kits are just as great. There’s nothing wrong with them, especially if they fulfill the what you’re looking for. But make sure you examine the kit contents (for instance, on B&H’s website, you have to scroll down the the lower right side to see the kit contents). Sometimes the kit has lower quality items. For instance, Lowel makes a great light, but their light stands are a bit behind the Impact brand.

I completely disagree with your recommendations.
Great to hear! In fact, I’d love to hear your suggestions, in return. Seeing how we’re always learning new techniques and methods, best to share the knowledge! As for my recommendations above, they’re merely what I find most useful for my garageband lighting kit and I’m simply sharing my opinion. Do your research for what best fits your lighting kit and I’m sure may end up with completely different results. And again, be sure to know that you may find yourself in need to rent different or additional lights here and there for a specific need.

Who is Alex Fox and how can I reach him?
As mentioned above, besides being an old classmate of mine, Alex is the owner of the East Coast production firm Fox Commercial Media and founder/mind-behind the great DSLR training resources at 5DFilmSchool.com. He’s a great DP and knows his way around lighting and DSLR filmmaking. Check out Alex’s work on YouTube, and also see his killer tutorials and videos at the 5DFilmSchool.com website. If you think they’re as awesome as I do, check out his DVDs, as well!

How do I reach YOU, Matthew Ward?
The best way is to email me: reply@studioward.com
I’d love to hear from you!